i actually woke up at 2am this morning because i wanted to foil the moonlight. it was so clear and so beautiful this morning.
absolutely breathtaking. i can just watch this and hope it never ends. foiled a secret spot for a couple hours. long rides and few people. after surfing with the crowds for 35 years of my life, it feels amazing to be so free…
the last time i surfed was at Bowls when it was barreling like this. the barrel is the only reason i still want to short board. so yes, when the waves get big, i’ll be out there for sure…
also, i got my eyes on my next mission. i’m going to pump out to the blue water and ride the wind swells for miles. and i’m going to do it all alone because that’s how i like to connect with the ocean. can’t wait!
