yesterday was Easter Sunday so i knew it was going to be really crowded everywhere in the morning. i exercised first, then pulled up mid-morning. when i was in the parking lot, i seen a bunch of surfers that just came in. as i started to walk to the spot, this guy came up to me and said “wow, it was so good this morning, you missed it.” of course i ignore negative comments so i kept on walking. then i wondered, “what did i miss?” then i thought “who is that guy? i don’t even know him? and how can he say i missed something when he didn’t even know what i was doing earlier?” anyway, i paddle out and only 2 guys were out. then one guy goes in and it’s only me and my friend Eddie foiling the most perfect waves. it’s almost feels like we’re on a surf trip or something. Eddie tells me “omg, there was 15 guys out right before you paddled out.” then i thought again, “what did i miss? what was that guy even talking about?”
when you have the whole ocean to yourself, it’s a good time to try things you normally wouldn’t when it’s crowded. this is where i push my limits to the fullest. sometimes i succeed, and sometimes i don’t. but my saying has always been “if you don’t go, you won’t know.” so now i know i’m not ready for what i attempted. haha…
**anyway, i’ll teach you guys surfing mannerism. never tell a surfer you don’t know that “you missed it.” it makes no sense to me. maybe he likes surfing with 15 guys? i sure don’t so i didn’t miss anything dude…