Don’t say: You Missed It?

206

yesterday was Easter Sunday so i knew it was going to be really crowded everywhere in the morning.  i exercised first, then pulled up mid-morning.  when i was in the parking lot, i seen a bunch of surfers that just came in.  as i started to walk to the spot, this guy came up to me and said “wow, it was so good this morning, you missed it.”  of course i ignore negative comments so i kept on walking.   then i wondered,  “what did i miss?”  then i thought “who is that guy?  i don’t even know him?  and how can he say i missed something when he didn’t even know what i was doing earlier?”  anyway, i paddle out and only 2 guys were out.  then one guy goes in and it’s only me and my friend Eddie foiling the most perfect waves.  it’s almost feels like we’re on a surf trip or something.  Eddie tells me “omg, there was 15 guys out right before you paddled out.”   then i thought again, “what did i miss?  what was that guy even talking about?”   

when you have the whole ocean to yourself, it’s a good time to try things you normally wouldn’t when it’s crowded.  this is where i push my limits to the fullest.  sometimes i succeed, and sometimes i don’t.  but my saying has always been “if you don’t go, you won’t know.”  so now i know i’m not ready for what i attempted.  haha…

**anyway, i’ll teach you guys surfing mannerism.  never tell a surfer you don’t know that “you missed it.”  it makes no sense to me.  maybe he likes surfing with 15 guys?   i sure don’t so i didn’t miss anything dude…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide