i went to Diamond Head this morning in the dark and when i paddled out, i couldn’t believe how big it was. it was much bigger than i expected.
by the time i came in, there were 50 guys out. Summer swells are here!
then when i looked at Ala Moana side, it was much smaller than i thought. weird swell because Diamond Head was much much bigger than anywhere else.
seen this Father and Son riding a wave together. i wanted to yell at both of them “LOOK FORWARD!!!”
i’m taking a day off from the ocean tomorrow and heading to the mountain. going to get dirty and i can’t wait!
