Crazy to Peaceful World…

232

we live in a very crazy world now, even in Hawaii.  a military guy locked himself in his hotel room, shot at security guards, then shot himself.  and this happened at the quiet and peaceful The Kahala Hotel!  can you imagine what the tourists were feeling?  that’s going to be a negative impact for luxury The Kahala Hotel.  such a bummer…

after being in the mountain all day yesterday, i needed to go refresh in the ocean.  and there is no better way than jumping on Mayuki and going with the flow.  i had no plan so i wasn’t expecting anything special…

i pulled up to one of the best right handers on the South shore.  the waves and conditions were dreamy.  i seriously thought i was in Indonesia.  today was the best day of the year for sure!  

and since it was the calmest conditions of the year, i headed way out to sea to explore.  full throttle straight out to sea! 

then i came across this baby whale.  it must have just been born because it was the size of a dolphin.  i turned off the motors, drifted, and this baby whale stayed right by Mayuki for over an hour.  

going up and down in the complete silence.  i’ve never experienced a baby whale staying so close to me for that long of time.  i wanted to jump in and swim with it but i knew Mama was close by.  and i didn’t want to be on the evening news headline about a guy getting eaten by a whale.  haha…

then i came back to reality and couldn’t believe how crowded Bowls was.  i was thinking to myself “i’m not surfing at Bowls for a while.”  

then after a nap, i was revived and went to foil Bowls.  haha.  i had an amazing session!  it’s crazy how the ocean always calls me back.  tomorrow bigger waves coming so i’ll be back…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide