Boat Trip Hawaii

190

this morning we made a secret mission.  left at dark, drove an hour and half, and foiled the most sacred secret spot in Hawaii. it was my first time so i actually had to promise not to tell anybody.  and if i did, the consequence will be a broken arm.  so yeah, i’m not telling anybody…

one of the boys had an apple watch so we documented our session.  each of us caught 25 waves, rode the waves for 3 miles (4.83 kilometers), and that wasn’t including the long paddles out after each wave.  by the end of our dream session, none of us could even paddle or walk.  our arms and legs were numb…

yes, i promised these boys i won’t tell anyone our secret mission.  i don’t want my arms to be broken by these 2 huge guys so i’m keeping silent.  thanks boys for the amazing memory!

i was so happy today that after a came in, i went back out this afternoon to foil a few waves in Waikiki.  after riding 2 waves, i got bored and went in. nothing compares to what i experienced this morning.  nothing…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide