2 days ago, i went to the mountains. and whenever we came by a spot where you could see the ocean, i stopped and checked out the waves. i could see a nice late season North swell so i was bummed i didn’t have my surfboard with me.
so yesterday, i went back to catch that North swell. surfed with a couple of friends and had a wonderful time. nice waves, good vibe, and lovely nature. secret spot so sorry no photos…
about 15 years ago, i was walking around Tokyo and walked into the Ferrari showroom. i clearly remember thinking to myself “wow, i would love to have one of these someday.” and now that it’s 15 years later, my thinking has completely changed. i don’t need a nice car. i don’t need lots of money. all those desires aren’t there anymore. all i need is a few close friends, my family, and a very simple life. i think i finally grew up. haha…
