when i first started to get seriously into photography, i use to drive all around and just look for subjects and backgrounds. i would sit and wait for a moment i thought would be cool. this guy happened to run by me and just jumped over the wall into the ocean. pretty cool!
then one day i was driving back from Sandy Beach to my house when i saw this SUP paddling in the super mirror like ocean. so i stopped and shot this photo. pretty cool!
then one day my friend and i paddled out to this secret river mouth in Japan. there was a super typhoon spinning right outside of this island. i caught a really nice wave, pulled into a huge barrel, and made it. so i came in because i thought i caught the wave of the day. then when i looked back out to see where my friend Matchi was, i saw him take off on this bigger wave, pull into a bigger barrel, and that ended up being the wave of the day! omg, we had a lot of beers that night celebrating our amazing day…
