i was sitting in the dark this morning checking Diamond Head. the waves looked better than i thought, so i thought i’d go to a spot that should be much much better. it takes over an hour to get to the spot, but i knew it would be worth it.
so i pull up and the conditions couldn’t have been any better. it’s a very far paddle out but i’m paddling full speed so it’s not too bad. i was super excited because it’s been a while since i’ve been here.
i turn and take off on my first wave, then pump into 4 waves back to back. i seriously could have gone in feeling totally content. but it was so good that i ended up staying out for a couple of hours.
i felt like i was on a surf trip. the waves were absolutely perfect!
then i came back to town and took a look at Diamond Head again. it was super good! i grabbed my board and ran down the hill. when i paddled out, one of my friends told me “where were you this morning? you missed out!!!” i looked at him and smiled. silence is golden…
