the past 2 nights i slept by 7:30pm so i was ready for the early morning sessions. this morning, the weather was clear, the wind was crisp, and the waves were amazing! i took out my shortboard and figured out how to surf again! i was doing 3 turns per wave and i even got barreled. and that was only Round 1…
i passed by Rockpiles and couldn’t believe how many surfers were out. omg! that didn’t look fun to me.
i picked up a couple of my friends and went searching for the perfect wave. and guess what? we found it! a perfect point right peeling like a dream. and to top it off, nobody was out! it was the 3 of us doing what we love most, Boat Trip!!!
when you can enjoy surfing, friendship, and life all at once, you’re pretty content. i want to thank my friends for an amazing day, and want to thank Mother Nature for sending us perfect waves for our dream session…
