once again, i was in the ocean from 5:30-11am. 5.5 hours of total fun in the sun! the waves were perfect again and our little secret spot was amazing! boat trip Hawaii!
it’s pretty crazy how you can find a break all to yourselves in these day. i short boarded 2 rounds and my surfing is getting better. i also foiled too so going back and forth is very important for me. we were the 3 happiest surfers in the world today!
whenever i’m on my shortboard, i’m always searching for the barrel. from waist high to 20′, i’m going to pull in no matter what! barrels are my life…
