Payback

201

i felt like short boarding yesterday but i just took my foil for backup.  

when got out, i short boarded and everybody was taking turns.  it was super fun.  until…

30 minutes later, there were long boarders everywhere!  nobody taking turns, no manners, and just chaos!   so i went back to the boat and got my foil.  then i caught every wave i wanted, pumped around all the guys taking my waves earlier, and just creating my own kind of chaos.  i had a lot of fun!

after all that fun, i went to pick up my friends and went back out for more fun.  this spot had nobody out so i short boarded. we had a lot of fun again!  now, i’m going to make sure i’m prepared for surfing or foiling.  or both!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide