the waves have been absolutely amazing on the South shore! head high, off shore, and perfect. i surfed again this morning and my mind and body is feeling like a surfer again!
even though i didn’t want to watch the contest in Australia yesterday, i did. but this time, finally the waves were good! and when the waves are good, Seth Moniz is good…
we have a group chat and all i did was send one word, “FINALLY!”
