for the past months, i’ve been avoiding the crowds. it takes a little more effort and a lot more time, but when you find good waves, it’s all worth it…
but the past 2 days, i’ve been back to the crowds. easy parking, short paddle, and hardly any effort. and now i’m back on my shortboard, i have to compete for waves because like everyone else, i want the best ones. so mixing it up recently has been fun. and talking to my friends in the lineup has been fun too…
