today’s conditions were pristine. no wind, warm weather, and glassy waves. when i was heading out, i could feel like i was going to score!
when a surfer sees the ocean like this, it’s a dream.
i stop by this usually crowded spot and was wondering why there were only 3 surfers out? they told me that the box jellyfish warning scared everybody away. wow, that’s cool! i think i like box jellyfish now. haha. the other day had 30 guys out at this time, now only 3? score!
we just took turns wave after wave. and there were so many empty waves too. i felt like i was on a Indonesia boat trip again.
i chose to ride my foil today because i wanted to practice my pumping. i took off on this wave and rode into 6 consecutive waves. after towing in yesterday on the North shore, this was very comfortable. no stress, no adrenaline rush, and no heavy wipeouts. just flying around like a happy and peaceful bird. i wonder what tomorrow will bring…