False Alarm: South Swell

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for the past 30 years, i’ve been telling everyone that nobody can accurately predict the South swells.  so when you have surfline and other surf reports saying it was going to be 3-5′ today, of course the whole island is going to the beach.  this is Bowls this morning and it looked ridicules!

the North shore boys came to town so we went searching for the perfect wave!

when i custom ordered Mayuki, i made sure there was enough room for diving gear, surfboards, fishing poles, and even a camping tent.  i would have never thought that was the perfect choice because our foil boards fit perfectly!  and 8 years ago, foiling wasn’t even invented yet.  haha…

these boys take me to their North shore spots and we laugh all day long.  now we can foil the South shore spots laughing all day long.  the ocean is the ocean and when we’re in it, it’s always fun…

not too many people know in town know who Kaiborg is.  so when i see people trying to run him over or taking his waves, i just laugh.  it’s just a matter of time when some idiot does or says the wrong thing.  and that’s when i’ll put my head down and say “omg, you better run on water…”  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide