if you can wake up early enough, you will get to surf glassy waves before the wind picks up. and when the conditions are like this, surfing feels 100x better!
i’ve been surfing many different spots recently. some with nobody out and some crowded like this. i like it both because i can be in peace by myself, or i can talk story and laugh with friends. and i’ve also been making some new friends. i’m pretty stoked!
i like to sit back and watch people surf too. i can see their style, their ride, and their stoke. it’s pretty cool seeing so many happy people in the ocean. i love it all…
