Kujira Breaching…

195

the waves looked really small in town today so i decided to do something different.  instead of just foiling like i normally do, i decided to teach myself something new.  i found a little wave all to myself and thought, “ok, it’s time to take this foiling to another level.”

every turn i did, i tried to get the tips of the foil out of the water.  it felt so wild during the turn but i could actually control it.  then when i saw the photos, i saw half of my foil out of the water!!!  much more than i thought so i was pretty happy.  now i plan to practice this until i master it…

i was watching the contest this afternoon.  it’s usually so stressful but today Seth surfed a really smart heat so i knew he would win it.  if you live in the valley, you would have heard me screaming again.  haha…

that’s how to do it Seth!!!  i’m super stoked for you!!!

when my nephews smile, i smile.  and when my nephews don’t smile, i don’t smile.  i can feel the happiness and sadness of competition.  it’s not for everyone…

i picked some rosemary from my garden and fried up a thick ribeye steak.  much needed protein for my body…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide