Just Go Surf

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when i was a little kid, i use to play little league baseball.  my team was the Cubs and the only thing i remember was Coach Dean hitting us with bats, balls, and even his hand.  if it were today, he’d go to jail for child abuse.  but to be honest, i think we deserved to get beaten up because we use to do very stupid things.  but yeah, those were some years in my life i totally forgot because i wanted to forget.  mental blackout?  maybe.  but i’m just glad this kid turned out to be a surfer.  the ocean saved my life and nature cured my soul.  i get scary thoughts thinking about “what if i didn’t surf?”  honestly, i don’t think i’d be alive today…

by the way, my Mom took this photo.  i was batting and my brother Mason was catching.  during our childhood years, we’d get into huge fights.  so i must have gotten mad and ripped out his side of the photo and ate it.  haha.  i was a little crazy kid and if you knew me, you wouldn’t have liked me.  because i didn’t even like myself.  so there is hope if you think you’re crazy.  just go surf…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide