for 25 years, i would drive out to the North Shore every single day. and when Backdoor got big and good like this, i’d be out no matter what. that was my passion. what you don’t see in this photos are the 50 hungry and aggressive surfers behind this wave. yes, you have to hassle, position yourself, and even fight for a wave like this. my mindset was “don’t be nice, just stand your ground and when it’s time, you just go.” it was my job everyday to get the best wave and best photo possible. when i think about it now, i pretty much put my life on the line for all those years because that wave has killed many good surfers. so i’m very thankful for walking away with just cuts, bruises, broken boards, and only two emergency room visits. lucky me…
now my life is way different. much more calm, much more relaxing, and much more simple. i don’t miss fighting for waves on the North Shore anymore. i don’t miss the drive in traffic. and i don’t miss the competitiveness. i like it plain and simple just like this…
