A Long Journey…

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i passed by Diamond Head and it was pretty windy.  not as windy as i wanted it to be, but good enough for a downwind foil run.  so i jump back in my car and drive to Black Point.

my friend was at Cliffs taking photos so lucky i got some.  look good and you can see me holding my board getting ready to jump off the rocks.  when i got there, i didn’t realize how big the waves were!  but i always have a rule “never U-Turn.  always try.”  so i jump off and almost get smashed into the rocks.  the waves had a lot of power.  by the time i made it to the outside, i was already tired.  haha…

then i have to take off on huge waves like this just to get started.  it was very challenging but i did it!

after you catch a wave successfully, you turn around and pump as far out to sea as you can.  it’s there you start your long journey.  this is the best and hardest workout you will ever experience…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide