Thousands Years Ago Indonesia Life

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when i travel, surfing and diving is my main focus.  but in between that, i focus is connecting to the locals.  i would take my camera and paddle to secluded islands by myself.  some of these islands are so secluded that they probably never seen any foreigners before.  it’s scary at first because my photographer friend John Callahan once told me a story about him going to a secluded island in the Andaman Islands.  and when was about to arrive by dingy, the locals started shooting arrows at them.  that’s always in my mind when approaching the unknown.  but once i see the smiles, i’m happy.  

i like to roam around, hide in the bushes, and take natural photos like this.  i must look like the paparazzi to them.  haha…

but it’s always the kids that is easiest to connect to.  they are happy, they are curious, and they are so pure.  i don’t understand their language, they don’t understand mine, but we always find a way to communicate.  and at the end, we’re usually laughing out loud.  these kids learn and eat off the land.  this is probably how Hawaii use to be a thousands of years ago…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide