Happy Father’s Day in the Sea!

168

i had an amazing 3 hour surf this morning at Bowls.  good to surf with all the happy Father’s on this beautiful Father’s Day!  then at 5:30pm this evening, i wanted Part 2 of Father’s Day so i grabbed a bottle of wine, my little Princess, and headed out for the sunset.

i wasn’t planning to surf but i still checked every single spot on the South Shore.  the swell was peaking and the conditions were perfect.

right at the sun was setting, i came across this perfect wave and nobody was out!  i immediately threw the anchor and headed out for a dream Father’s Day session!

i had my little Princess on the boat following me with her camera.  after i rode each wave, she would point out and say “go get one more!”  and that’s what i did!

then on the way in, i saw Buddy and Gen waiting at the peak at Bowls so i sped by and gave them some special boat wake.  haha…

if you’re not a good surfer, you wouldn’t know what to do with the boat wake wobbling out your wave.  but if you’re a good surfer, you can use that to your advantage.  so when i saw Buddy taking off, i knew he was going to take advantage of it.  this is how you do it.  instead of complaining, do something special like this!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide