Live Life…

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paddled out this morning in the pitch dark again.  i just love the moment of touching water and paddling out right into the full moon.

since Trinx has been making my boards, i’ve already ordered 5 of them.  first i test it out, then we go back into the shaping room and make minor adjustments.  and when i think it’s impossible to make a better one, he makes me a better one.   i’m flying faster than ever!

Matsu just got his new one too and he loves it!  so if you see this green board flying around Japan, that’s Matsu!

omg, sad news about the luxury condominium in Florida that collapsed at 2am in the morning.  it’s crazy because you’re supposed to be safe in your own bed, then something like this happens.  i hope they find more people alive.  it makes me really think about how precious life is.  it could end in a second even when you feel the safest.  so sad…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide