Carter and i jumped on Mayuki for an afternoon session. big swells like this don’t come very often so you have to take advantage of it. so after 4 hours of tow in foiling in the morning, i was ready to get barreled on my shortboard! 
right when we pulled up, there was a freak set! the boys told me it was 6′! 
got out my camera and took a couple photos. here is Kimo Gasper on a beauty. 
then Joshua Moniz came out and showed us how the best surfers in the world do it. to me, Joshua has one of the best styles ever…
then on the way back in, we stopped at Bowls for some front row seats. it was pretty dam good too!
summer time in Hawaii is so sweet. i can surf 7 hours a day and when i get home, i’m fully content. sleep like a baby and do it all over again tomorrow…
