eating breakfast at 3am is very healthy. by the time it’s 4am, i’m energized and ready for the day ahead.
this is what my custom yogurt bowl looks like. healthy and happy. right after this, i went to Bowls and was surprised how big the waves still were! it looked bigger than yesterday. tide too low so i waited until the tide came up because the waves would only get better.
i sent Guy Hagi this photo of Ronnie Yamada i took yesterday. he put it on the news so i was stoked.
this is the original photo. look how good the waves were yesterday! it looked like Backdoor!!!
today i waited until the tide came up. then i surfed for 3 hours at Big Rights. the waves were bigger than yesterday, cleaner than the past 2 days, and super empty. i got barreled on almost every wave!
when i surf here, i just look for the barrel. and when i’m in it, i feel like i’m in heaven…
after my epic session, i went to Waikiki and watched my friends surf perfect waves on the outer reefs. tomorrow is going to be good again! we had 3 days of solid big surf and this best swell of the year isn’t finished yet. goodnight…
