Back to Booming!

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super happy to longboard with Leo today.  i really like this kid because he’s so happy and so energetic.  he makes me feel 12 years old too.  haha…

we rode some amazing waves together.  good style and great balance.

Leo got stung from a bee the other day so his right leg was totally swollen.  he said it was hurting him before we paddled out so i told him once we get in the ocean, it will be fixed.  as we were paddling out through the big waves, i asked him how was his bee sting?  to told me he completely forgot about it.  haha.  i told him the ocean fixes everything.  now he knows what to do when he gets stung again…

right after we caught a wave, this turtle popped his head up right next to us.  so cool.

great smile kid!  and great surfing with you!  

omg, i couldn’t believe how much traffic it was leaving Waikiki. the normal 7 minute drive home now takes me 18 minutes.  Hawaii is back to booming!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide