wow, it’s been a while since i long boarded out at Bowls. i forgot how fun it is, i forgot how long the wave is, and i forgot how beautiful it is…
oh, and i forgot how dangerous it is! i almost got whacked in the head today. haha…
good to see my friends kid out surfing and enjoying the ocean. i knew this kid when from when he was still in his Mother’s stomach. good to see you Brax!
everybody is asking me when the next swell is coming??? are you serious? we just had the one of the best swells in the history of south swells. 5 full days of big surf and even today still had some leftovers. slow down everybody, enjoy the last one and don’t worry about the next. it will come…
