whenever i surf at Waikiki, i’m always on defense mode. there are so many beginners out there that are totally clueless. and there are so many good surfers out there that are totally clueless too. so whenever a set comes and everybody starts to paddle for it, i feel like i’m dodging bullets. 9-10′ bullets made out of fiberglass…
but there are a few locals out there that know the rules and etiquette. if it wasn’t for them, this place would be 10x more dangerous. when Mark paddles for a wave, nobody else goes. that’s respect…
so yes, i love to surf with the old timers. every time i take my friends out there, i tell them “when these old timers paddle for a wave, don’t even try to go. just sit, watch, and be inspired.” 
the first signs of Summer in Japan. thank you Seira-chan!
