last week, this Spanish guy went on a surf trip to surf Puerto Escondido in Mexico. this was his first wave there and this also was his last wave of his life. he wiped out and drowned on this wave. hearing this news gave me chicken skin because i almost drowned there too. i still remember telling myself when i got held down for 2 consecutive waves “keep calm, and if i die, i’m doing what i love.” i’ll never forget that. so that’s what i feel about people who die doing what they love. you can’t ask for a better exit than that. and only a surfer will understand…
every so often, a random photo will pop up on my iPhone. this one made me smile. made me smile because of Tony’s life of making people happy with his homemade lilikoi butter. he’s no longer here but his aloha will live in our lives forever. and also seeing Asayamasan made me smile. he’s living the healthy life in Japan going surfing, gardening, yoga, ukulele, and family time. that’s so wonderful! 
i’ve been seeing dolphins almost everyday. and it makes me feel so lucky…
