good evening. today is the smallest day for waves on all shores. the surf reports were calling it flat-2 on all shores so most surfers were over it. so we pull up to laniakea at 9:30am and seen this perfect chest high set peeling perfectly across. and only 2 people out. we got out there, then the 2 people came in. so aoki-san and i had the whole lanikea lineup to ourselves. score!!! i knew it wasn’t going to last long and it didn’t. an hour later, a few other surfers came out. one of them was shin-san. i think we scored today…
don’t let the lineup fool you. if you don’t go, you won’t know…
took a drive up to ehukai beach park after. gosh, it was beautiful!!! the surf report was calling pipeline flat to 1 foot….
did i pull up at the right time???? this isn’t flat to 1 foot. maybe it was a freak set because nobody was out. where the heck is everybody??? after lunch, we went to stand up paddle at velzyland…
check this out. you won’t find fresher shirasu anywhere on this island. this is fresh off the boat from yamari in wakayama, japan. wanted to thank kimura-san and family for making my dream dinner after a long day in the ocean.. itadakimasu!!!
all i have to say is “LIFE IS GOOD”….[:????????$B!r(B:]
