when i saw the South swell arriving yesterday, i took a drive by Diamond Head in the evening. from here, you can see the whole ocean. in 5 seconds, i will know the size of the swell, the winds, and most importantly, the swell direction. 
this new swell is coming from the South/West direction. you can tell by how the waves are coming in from the left side breaking a little out to sea. most surf spots in town love the South/West direction so this swell should be pretty dam good. winds will be light too so expect perfect conditions. i can’t wait!
yesterday the waves were still on the small side to short board, but pretty perfect for the foil. after this, i put my foil away because i’ll be surfing for the next 10 days straight. i’m gonna search for the barrel!
