woke up this morning and went to surf the forerunners of the next giant swell. the waves were very inconsistent, but you can tell the ocean was waking up. i think tomorrow will be big, and Tuesday will be bigger. so expect this swell to last for the next 10 days! so happy!!!
i wasn’t the only one waiting for the swell. the whole island was. the swell direction is going to be good, and so is the winds. expect epic sessions all around Oahu, including the North swell too!
i haven’t spoken much Japanese since March of 2020. from speaking it everyday, to speaking it once in a 100 days. i can tell i’m losing my 2nd language so i started watching Japanese movies. this is how i learned Japanese in the first place so why not start off trying to speak like a Samurai! haha. this movie Rurouni Kenshin “The Beginning” is really good! i love the action and acting. i actually thought the main character was a woman at first. that’s until i saw his samurai skills. so cool!!! anyway, i actually learned some new Japanese words. can’t wait to use it!!!
