it’s been a while since i had a honey glazed ham plate lunch. sweet and juicy!
i surfed Bowls twice today. one early morning with the sunrise and cool winds. and one in the afternoon with blazing sun and sunburnt skin. both sessions waves were super good so nobody’s complaining.
i want to congratulate Kimo Gasper for spearing this huge ONO! we’ve been talking about getting one of these for years and he got the one first. super stoked for him! now it’s my turn to hunt one of these monsters down…
this past South swell was pretty amazing. and when you have an expert water photographer like Neal Miyake in the lineup, the memory will live on forever. thank you so much for the beautiful photo Neal!