yippie! paddled out early morning in the dark. just loving the view of the Honolulu City Lights!!!
there were still some leftovers from the past swell.
Troy on a set.
Carter on another set.
my friend asked me “why is Bowls so empty on the big days and so crowded on the small days?” i told her “because a lot of the surfers out here are small wave lovers. when it gets big, they go to work or get sick all of a sudden.” haha…
went to foil somewhere else in the afternoon and it was freaking amazing! good to be back flying so high!
