i had zero expectations this morning because i thought the waves were super small and junky. i just wanted to start my day with one or two waves so i paddled out to Bowls. and guess what? it was absolutely perfect! this was the cleanest and most perfect conditions of the Summer. it was so glassy that you couldn’t see the waves coming in. on normal days, you can do 5 maneuvers on one wave. but today, you could do 10. here is Tommy setting up for turn number 1 of 10.
there was a big storm coming with heavy rain and strong winds. going to Jurassic’s is a gamble but since this morning was so perfect, why not gamble in the afternoon? and yes, it was exactly how i thought it would be! stormy, challenging, and super fun!
this kid had his broken hand in a cast. then he wrapped his cast in a plastic bag so he could surf. haha!
almost everybody out at Jurassic’s got stung by box jellyfish. one wrapped around my leash and stung my ankle. ouch!!!
another long and amazing day in the sea. can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings…
