just 3 days ago was the best waves i’ve ever surfed at Bowls. i felt like i was surfing at Macaroni’s in Indonesia. it was that perfect. and to make it even better, there were only a handful of locals out so it was like a little surf trip. everybody happy, everybody smiling, and everybody ripping. it’s days like this i travel to the other side of the world for. but not this time…
want to thank Naoka for sending me these photos of our little boat trip.
when i’m in the ocean, i’m in my happy place.
and when i’m in my happy place, i’m the happiest guy in the world…