Half Day Course

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all i have to say is i’m glad to be back home. the sun, the clean water, and the fresh air made me feel like i was born again. leaving hawaii for 17 days made me realize 2 things. first, everything hawaii has to offer. i can make a list of a 100 things right now. but to sum it up, the ALOHA is what this place is all about. i woke up, checked the waves, went to pick up the sato-san husband and wife, and spent a half day course with them.

surfed bowls for 3 hours. totally fun!! sunny!! nice!! a super energetic cute couple who love surfing! shaka to you too!

after starving after surfing so long, we went to eat the best poke bowl on the island. poke and an ice cold coke? can’t beat that!!!

i ordered the half spicy tuna and half hawaiian ahi over hot rice. including a drink, $7 even. so good!

what do you do after eating spicy food on a hot hawaiian day? get a cold waiola shave ice with ice cream on the bottom. what a way to end up a half day course.
while we were eating our shave ice, i told the sato-san couple that today was a perfect day. surf, poke, and shave ice. they told me, “thank you.” i said “no, please don’t thank me, i meant it was a perfect day for me, yes, me.” i didn’t surf yesterday on purpose because i wanted to feel what they were feeling. and now i know. to come off an airplane to such a beautiful place, and to jump into the clear blue ocean is a feeling i can’t explain. i grew up in hawaii and it took me all these years to finally figure out what a lucky person i am. surfing with such nice people, eating good hawaiian food, and to end it with the best shave ice, you couldn’t ask for a better half day. now to finish it off, a good afternoon nap was the plan. but instead, i spent the whole afternoon on my computer. i’m happy any which way.
so the answer to the question of the 2 things i realized after traveling for the past 17 days.
1. the ALOHA spirit we have in hawaii. i sure missed my friends.
2. i have the best job in the world! to be able to do and share everything i love to the japanease makes me happy. and if i’m happy, everybody around me is happy. and if everybody around me is happy, everybody around them is happy. remember the movie “PAY IT FORWARD?” well, let’s keep the happiness alive. pass it around like a wild virus that nobody can cure!
with that, hope your day was as good as mine.
SURF YOUR DREAM!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide