spent another early morning out in the ocean. i just love this time of day! so colorful and so cool!
the rights were small, but perfect for long boarding. and foiling! so yeah, i had my foil and had a great time.
then we went back out in the afternoon and surfed the lefts. i think i saw a few good indicators of the new swell coming.
good too see my friend Alex and his kid riding waves for so long.
this is how it starts. this is how watermen are born.
by the end of the day, i was totally sunburnt and my eyes were stinging red. i didn’t know if my camera was focused or not because this is what my eyes see in the afternoon sun. better go sleep because tomorrow will be the same. from a happy sunburnt surfer!
