Jello Legs

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went out to Kaisers this morning.  everybody was expecting the 4-5′ swell today but it didn’t come.  we had no expectations so it was still amazing!  

i met Sam 6 months ago at Jurrasics.  it was his first time foiling so i was helping him out.  i haven’t seen him since then so i was surprised to see him this morning.  he told me he’s been foiling every single day since.  he got really good and he also lost 30lbs.!  he looked so good!!!

second session we tried something a little different.  sunny, warm, and fun.  towards the evening, the new South swell finally started to show.  i think tomorrow will be head high, perfect, and super crowded.  

did 2 rounds of foiling and my legs feel like jello now.  goodnight…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide