Be Better

195

this morning will be the last of the perfect glassy conditions for a little while.  the water surface looked like oil.  and how about that sunrise?  

every surfer in the world would be super stoked surfing conditions like this.  that was round 1 at Bowls.

round 2 was at Diamond Head.  i sat on the top of the cliff taking videos of my friends.  i was coaching them by analyzing while videoing.  that’s going to be my new style of coaching because that seems to be the most effective way.  i can see everything from here so when they see it for themselves, they will understand a lot better.  the only hard thing about doing that is it’s so hot on top!  i was sweating!!!

my local surfer friend came to me and saw me sweating.  so he went into his cooler and gave me an ice cold gatorade.  omg, i needed that.  thank you Patrick!  

then after losing a few pounds by sweat, i hiked down the cliff and took some clips from the water.  i cooled down pretty fast.  the ocean is so precious…

i’m having a great time coaching my friends.  and i’m having a greater time watching them getting good so fast.  results makes me happy and i’m sure it will make them happy too.  every surfer wants to surf better, including me…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide