Surfers Rainbow

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this month had the most box jellyfish i’ve ever seen.  guys were getting stung all over the South Shore for the past 4 days.  today didn’t have any so all the boys were back.  it was pretty dam crowded.  i think i like when the jellyfish are here.  haha.

there was no rain today so no major rainbows.  only if you’re a surfer, you could experience a rainbow after every wave that broke.  i saw 30 of them and it made me happy 30 times…

then on to round 2 at our secret spot.  bigger waves and very challenging for us, but we did it!

this wave looks small but this is actually well overhead.  tomorrow morning going to paddle out at dark again.  so goodnight for now.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide