light winds and a small swell. that means Diamond Head will be good for foiling. so that’s where i went this morning. it was as good as it gets.
i haven’t been foiling much recently so good to catch up with the boys. and now that i see the whole spot more as a surfer, i can understand why surfers hate foilers. i already knew that, but now it’s very obvious because foilers can ride a wave forever.
Dane flying through perfect Diamond Head conditions.
i think this part of the coastline is so magical. every time i paddle in, i just look at these houses and wish i owned one. to be able to foil right to your doorstep must be pretty awesome.
the walk back to the car isn’t that bad too.
then i look at the green park and think how lucky i am to live 8 minutes right up the road…
anyway, the South shore picked up a little this evening. tomorrow morning is going to be super good! goodnight.
