i had a choice this morning. either to go Bowls and take turns with the boys in the lineup? maybe catch 6 waves in 2 hours? or go somewhere else and ride any and every wave i wanted. after thinking about what would make me happier today, that was an easy choice.
i rode any and every wave i wanted. it felt so free and it felt so peaceful being the first guy out in the ocean.
the conditions were super nice this morning. perfect for surfing or foiling.
Egan Inoue paddled out early too and i was watching him fly. we were talking about surfing and foiling. he was thinking the exact same thing about being so free on the foil. we had an amazing session.
this is my happy place. i wanted to be free today and i felt free just like a bird. i had one of the best foil sessions i had in a very long time.
and walking back to my car is pretty peaceful too. after this, i had a 8 hour course to get my jet ski license. i almost fell asleep in class. haha. but i passed so one more qualification to my resume. now i can legally operate a jet ski. until now, i guess i was illegal. opps…
