Sunrise Bowl

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yesterday i felt like riding a lot of waves with nobody around.  today, i felt like taking out my camera and shooting some friends.  this morning was a perfect photogenic day at the Bowl.

Bruce always getting the good waves.

Dana ripping the inside all to himself.

Jeannie is the Queen of Bowls.

today was another day of “locals only.”  i counted 9 locals in the lineup and there were only 2 waves per set.  i did the math and that’s why i decided to sit in the inside and watch the local boys conquer the spot.  i had a lot of fun watching…

then right when we came in, there was this huge double rainbow.  another perfect day in paradise.

 

my boards are working so good that what ever i take out, i’ll have the time of my life.  can’t wait for tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide