omg, i thought the waves were going to be super small this morning so took out my foil. i was sitting in the inside watching so many empty waves go by. lots of waves surfed and lots of waves not surfed.
for the first 30 minutes, i had enough waves to be completely satisfied. it was absolutely epic!
then the waves kept on coming and coming. it was perfect Bowls!
i saw Troy getting all the good ones. it made me want to surf!
after this empty barrel passed by me, i was going to paddle back in and switch to my short board. then i saw my friend and asked her “hey, can i borrow your board for 2 waves?” but i really meant “hey, give me your board for 2 waves!” haha.
i caught my first wave and couldn’t believe how comfortable i was right after foiling. this was my first turn and after that, i felt like i was Josh Moniz. haha.
this was my second turn and i felt like i was Seth Moniz. haha.
it felt so good pushing hard and throwing up spray into the golden sunrise. after this wave, i jumped back on my foil and foiled again. i was only out for 1.5 hours but it felt like i surfed for 3 rounds. i think i was the happiest surfer/foiler in the world this morning!
