a very long time ago, 12 of us Japanese surfers went to Fiji, got on a boat, and went searching for waves. we found this little island, and right off that island was this angry left. it would come in from super deep blue water and break on a very sharp shallow reef. there were lots of reef cuts and a lot of broken boards. i didn’t really like it because it was very unpredictable and very risky. and to top it off, the nearest hospital was 12 hours away by boat. the only reason i wore a wetsuit is because i didn’t want to get my body scraped all over the reef. by the end of the 7 day trip, my brand new white wetsuit looked like it went to war from hitting the reef a lot. anyway, after everybody saw these photos, the whole surfing world went there. it looks perfect in this photo, but i can assure you it wasn’t. it was sold as a new exotic destination in Fiji. that was the first and last time i went there. we were the first surfers to surf that spot so we got to name it. and we named it “King Kong.”
Bula!
