after i ride a wave, i always paddle back out slowly to watch everybody surf. you can really learn a lot about a surfers personality just by the way they approach the wave. some surfers are calm, and some are not calm. just by looking at their eyes, you will know. and in my opinion, the calmer, the cooler…
Clarance is very calm. he’s actually smiling when he approaches the waves. to me, this guy is super cool!
yes, i’ve been pretty lucky surfing perfect waves like this. i haven’t been to this spot in a long time and i didn’t realize how much i missed it…
