the surf came up last night so i was actually super excited to foil the first North swell of the season! i’ve been training every single day for this so once i grabbed the rope, i was 100% ready! the waves kept on coming up throughout the morning. there were some big sets! spent 3 hours foiling the oceans mountains…
secret spot so sorry no foiling photos today. all i can say is that i feel like the luckiest guy in the world! want to thank the boys for the invite. super stoked!
i am very thankful for just surviving the day. it is a very dangerous thing we do and even though how prepared you think you are, anything can happen in a second. so yes, i’m very thankful…
