did you ever hear of a surfer named Greg Apo? he’s an underground local that’s been surfing his whole life. we use to compete in contests together back in the early 1990’s so i know him well. he’s the kind of guy that can paddle out to Pipeline/Backdoor, or any spot on the island and get any wave. and he’s also the kind of guy you do not want to drop in on. if he paddles for a wave, you do not even paddle for it. it’s guys like Greg that can surf any spot on this island and instantly be on the top of the local food chain. the friendliest guy if you know him, but the scariest guy if you don’t.
i was at Bowls the other morning and guess who paddles out? yes, Greg Apo. of course nobody knows him because he doesn’t surf out there. you could be a local for 20 or 30 years out there but to guys like this, it doesn’t matter. he will get his waves and if you know him like i know him, you better be humble. anyway, i teach this to my friends “no matter how consistently or how long you’ve been surfing at a spot, there’s always somebody else that’s above you on the food chain so be very careful.” this is a classic example of that. nice to see you and nice to chat with you Greg. you still rip brother!!!
