went out this morning to the North shore. that was 6 out of the past 7 days. i wasn’t expecting anything today but it turned out to be the best day i’ve ever foiled! the waves were super good, and the conditions were absolutely perfect! i guess no expectations is always the way to go!
when you fall, you hit hard. all you see is bubbles for the first 5′ underwater. it’s like being in a washing machine with a lot of soap.
then the power of the wave pushes you deeper and it starts to get really clear. this is were i feel the most comfortable. i’m actually looking for fish. haha.
then when you come up, there is a thick layer of foam the wave left behind. you better not take your breath here or you will choke. so the most important thing is to keep calm and go with the flow. simply said, but not that easy to do. practice makes perfect…
